If want and greed are usually a response to the stimulus that surrounds, then stepping into J & M Tap may bring you to a quick state of nirvana. There is no sign to help you find it, no phone and dinner is Slim Jim and Cheetos.

Be warned: The locals that drink here are not hiding behind their beards and overalls to play hard to get. They prefer the barriers. Don't take that from them. J & M Tap doesn't accept credit cards, your taxi driver will have trouble locating this watering hole and the bartender that's been pouring cheap suds here for 24 years will not find it cute if this is your first Ukrainian Village adventure.

If you're willing to put the coldness aside, this place has a lot to offer, including a jukebox that'll blow your mind, $4 pitchers, $3 Stella, a fireplace and a pool table. But if you're looking for a bar that welcomes you with open arms, J&M probably shouldn't be the first stop on your list.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Anderson